Updated November 2026
License plate birdhouse plans free of charge are easy to find, and most of them share the same core build: a wooden box with a sloped roof topped with a metal license plate. In this guide you will get a usable cut list, the entrance hole size that matches common cavity-nesting birds, and the assembly order that keeps the box square. By the end you will have a finished birdhouse that is weather-tight, easy to clean and ready to mount.
What Makes a License Plate Birdhouse Work
A license plate roof is more than decoration. Painted steel shrugs off rain better than most thin wood roofing, and it sheds heat from the sun. The box underneath still does the real work, though. It needs a solid floor, a dry interior, ventilation near the top and an entrance sized for the species you want. The plate simply covers the top and adds a durable, low-maintenance lid.
Shopping for one? See our guide: 5 Best Birdhouses with License Plate Roof Plans for Backyard Builders (2026).
Most free plans are built for small songbirds such as chickadees, wrens and titmice, so the dimensions below target a 1-1/8 inch entrance hole. If you want bluebirds, you will need a slightly different layout, which is covered in Eastern Bluebird Birdhouse Plans: Free Dimensions and Build Steps.
Materials and Tools You Need
- One 1×6 cedar or pine board, about 6 feet long, roughly 3/4 inch thick (actual thickness is about 3/4 inch)
- One standard-size license plate or a metal sheet of similar dimensions
- Exterior wood glue and 1-1/4 inch exterior screws or galvanized nails
- A 1-1/8 inch spade or Forstner bit for the entrance hole
- A drill, a speed square, a tape measure and a handsaw or miter saw
- Stainless steel or galvanized screws for mounting the plate
- Exterior paint or a clear penetrating finish, if desired
Cedar is the most common choice because it resists rot without chemical treatment. Pine works if you seal it well. Avoid treated lumber, since residues can harm nesting birds.
Cut List for a Standard License Plate Birdhouse
The dimensions below produce a box about 5 inches square inside and roughly 9 inches tall at the back. Adjust only the entrance height if you need a different bird.
| Part | Quantity | Dimensions (inches) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front | 1 | 5-1/2 x 10-1/2 | Cut the top at an angle to match the roof slope |
| Back | 1 | 5-1/2 x 9-1/2 | Extends higher than the front for the roof |
| Sides | 2 | 5 x 9 | Angle the top edges to match the roof |
| Floor | 1 | 4-1/2 x 4-1/2 | Drill four 1/4 inch drain holes |
| Roof support | 1 | 4-3/4 x 5-3/4 | Optional, adds rigidity under the plate |
| Roof | 1 | License plate, about 6 x 12 | Screw or glue to the top with a slight overhang |
Step-by-Step Build
Step 1: Cut the Panels
Measure and cut each piece from the cut list. Mark the angled cuts on the front, back and sides with a speed square before cutting. A miter saw makes these cuts cleaner, but a handsaw with a guide works fine. Sand the cut edges lightly.
Step 2: Drill the Entrance Hole
Mark the entrance on the front panel about 7 inches down from the top of the lowest edge, centered side to side. Use a 1-1/8 inch bit to drill straight through. Keep the drill perpendicular to the board. Clear any splinters from the inside with a small rasp.
Step 3: Assemble the Walls
Glue and screw the sides to the floor first, keeping the edges flush. Then attach the front and back. Pre-drill every screw hole to prevent splitting cedar. Check the box is square by measuring the diagonals; they should match within 1/8 inch.
Step 4: Add the Drain Holes and Ventilation
Drill four 1/4 inch drain holes in the floor so water can escape. For ventilation, leave a small gap of about 1/4 inch between the top of the sides and the roof, or drill a few small holes near the top of the side walls. Good airflow keeps the interior from holding damp heat.
Step 5: Mount the License Plate Roof
Center the plate on the top of the box so it overhangs the front by about 1 inch. Secure it with stainless or galvanized screws, pre-drilling through the metal to prevent cracking. Use a roof support under the plate if the box is wide, since the thin metal can sag over time.
Step 6: Finish the Exterior
Apply exterior paint or a penetrating finish to the wood only, never inside the box. Let it cure fully before mounting. Leave the interior unfinished and rough so young birds can grip the walls when they leave the nest.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping drain holes. Trapped water leads to mold and rot. Drill them even if the roof seems tight.
- Making the entrance too large. A hole bigger than 1-1/8 inch lets in starlings and sparrows, which often displace native birds.
- Sealing the interior. Paint or varnish inside can harm nestlings. Keep the inside bare.
- Cracking the plate. Always pre-drill metal before driving screws.
- Mounting in full sun. Metal roofs get very hot. Choose a spot with some afternoon shade.
Tips for Better Results
- Clean the box once a year in fall, removing old nesting material and scrubbing with a mild solution. Let it dry completely.
- Mount the birdhouse 5 to 10 feet off the ground on a pole or fence post, with a predator guard if raccoons or cats are common in your yard.
- Face the entrance away from prevailing winds and direct afternoon sun.
- If you want a sturdier roof, consult Free Plans for Building a Birdhouse: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners for alternative roof framing methods.
- For a larger family of birds, compare dimensions in Large Birdhouse Plans Free: 4 Builds for Owls, Kestrels and Wood Ducks.
Recommended Gear
- Forstner bit set, for clean entrance holes. A Forstner bit cuts flatter, more accurate holes than a standard twist bit, reducing tearout on cedar. View on Amazon
- Stainless steel exterior screws. Stainless fasteners resist rust when driven through painted metal roofs. View on Amazon
- Speed square. Marking the roof angles on the front and sides is far easier with a square that has a built-in pivot guide. View on Amazon
FAQ
Are license plate birdhouse plans free to use?
Many license plate birdhouse plans are shared free by makers, extension services and woodworking sites. Check each source for any usage terms before you build and sell copies.
What bird is a license plate birdhouse best for?
The 1-1/8 inch entrance in this build suits chickadees, titmice, nuthatches and house wrens. Bluebirds need a different layout.
Does a metal roof make the birdhouse too hot?
Metal heats quickly in direct sun. Mounting the box where it gets afternoon shade and keeping ventilation gaps open helps prevent overheating.
What wood is best for a birdhouse?
Cedar is the most popular choice because it resists rot naturally. Untreated pine also works if it is sealed on the outside. Avoid pressure-treated lumber.
When should I clean out a birdhouse?
Clean it in fall after the nesting season ends. Remove old nests, scrub with a mild solution and let it dry. Some birds may reuse a box for roosting in winter.
How high should I mount the birdhouse?
Most small songbirds prefer a height of 5 to 10 feet. Use a predator guard if squirrels, raccoons or cats are a problem in your area.
Can I use a different license plate size?
Yes. Scale the roof to match the plate, and check that the overhang still protects the entrance. Keep the box dimensions aligned with the plate width.
Conclusion
With a single 1×6 board, one license plate and a 1-1/8 inch bit, you can build a durable birdhouse in an afternoon. Follow the cut list, leave the interior unfinished and drill proper drain holes. Once it is mounted in a shaded spot, you may find a pair of chickadees moving in the next spring.
