Red Headed Woodpecker Birdhouse Plans Free: 5-Step Build Guide

By Audrey Hayes

Updated November 2026

Red headed woodpecker birdhouse plans free of charge are easy to find, but most generic designs are too small for this species. In this guide you will get a workable set of dimensions, a cut list, and assembly steps for a nest box sized for red-headed woodpeckers. You will also learn the placement and maintenance details that determine whether a box actually gets used.

Why Red-Headed Woodpeckers Need a Specific Box Design

Red-headed woodpeckers are large cavity nesters, roughly 9 to 10 inches long. They excavate their own nest holes in dead or dying trees, often in open woodland, orchards and along field edges. Because they chisel out a deep cavity, they need a box with enough interior depth and a hole large enough for the adults to enter comfortably. A small wren or bluebird box will not work, and a box that is too shallow can leave nestlings exposed.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 3 Best Free Printable Octagon Birdhouse Plans Frees (2026): Our Picks.

Many nest boxes sold for these birds follow dimensions published by cavity-nester programs. The plan below uses interior measurements in that general range. Always confirm current guidance from your state wildlife agency or a local extension office, since recommendations can vary by region.

Materials and Tools You Will Need

• One 1×10 or 1×12 board of untreated cedar, pine, or cypress, about 6 feet long
• Exterior-grade wood screws, 1-1/4 inch, stainless or galvanized
• Exterior wood glue (optional, but helpful at joints)
• Hinged or removable roof panel with a simple latch or hook
• Hole saw or spade bit sized for a 2-1/2 inch entrance hole (verify the diameter for your target species)
• Table saw, miter saw, or circular saw with a guide
• Drill/driver, countersink bit, and tape measure
• Wood rasp or sanding block
• Exterior paint or stain, if desired (use nothing on the inside)

Cut List and Dimensions

All dimensions are nominal finished sizes for a 1×10 or 1×12 board. Cut the roughness off first so your measurements stay accurate. If you use 3/4-inch stock, the actual thickness is about 3/4 inch, so adjust the interior dimensions accordingly.

These parts produce an interior cavity of roughly 6 by 6 inches and about 12 to 14 inches deep, which gives adults room to excavate and nestlings room to develop. Check the depth against the species guidance you are following before you commit to final cuts.

Step-by-Step Build

Step 1: Cut and Mark the Parts

Cut all pieces to the list above, then label them on the inside face with a pencil. Mark the entrance hole center on the front panel, measuring from the top edge down to the hole center. Keep the entrance hole near the top so the nest sits well below it.

Step 2: Drill the Entrance Hole and Drainage Holes

Drill the entrance hole before assembly, while the front panel is flat and easy to clamp. Drill four drainage holes in the floor, one near each corner. Remove splinters from the entrance with a rasp so the birds do not injure themselves.

Step 3: Assemble the Walls

Attach the sides to the front and back panels with 1-1/4 inch screws, predrilling and countersinking each hole to prevent splitting. Keep the top edges flush so the roof sits level. Leave the floor off for now.

Step 4: Install the Floor

Set the floor inside the walls and secure it with screws through the sides. Some builders add a thin layer of wood shavings or sawdust later, which the birds can rearrange, but never add nesting material yourself.

Step 5: Attach the Roof and Hardware

Fasten the roof with a hinge along the back edge, or with two screws for a fixed roof. Add a latch or hook so you can open the box to clean it. Keep the roof overhang generous to shed rain from the entrance.

Placement and Mounting

Mount the box on a sturdy post or the trunk of a tree at about 8 to 15 feet above ground, facing away from prevailing winds and direct afternoon sun. Red-headed woodpeckers favor open areas with scattered snags, so a location at a woodland edge or in an orchard tends to work better than deep forest. Avoid placing boxes near bird feeders, where competition and predators can be a problem. Use a baffle on pole-mounted boxes to deter raccoons and snakes.

Common Mistakes

• Using a box that is too small. The cavity needs real depth, and undersized boxes often go unused.
• Putting the entrance hole too low, which lets predators reach in more easily.
• Painting or treating the interior. Keep the inside bare and rough so adults can grip the walls.
• Leaving out drainage holes. Trapped moisture leads to mold and failed nests.
• Cleaning or opening the box during active nesting. Wait until the season ends.

Tips for Success

• Install boxes in late winter or early spring, well before the breeding season begins.
• Clean the box once per year after the nesting season, removing old material.
• Check local regulations if you are placing boxes on public land.
• Keep a simple log of occupancy to see what works in your area.

Recommended Gear

• Exterior-grade screws: Stainless or coated screws resist rust and keep joints tight through seasons of weather. View on Amazon
• Forstner or spade bit set: A clean-cut entrance hole reduces splintering and makes the front panel safer for the birds. View on Amazon
• Pole and baffle kit: A stovepipe baffle helps keep climbing predators away from the nest. View on Amazon

FAQ

What wood is best for a red-headed woodpecker birdhouse?

Untreated cedar, pine, or cypress are common choices because they resist decay and do not contain chemicals that can harm birds. Avoid pressure-treated lumber and painted interiors.

How big should the entrance hole be?

A hole in the 2-1/2 inch range is typical for this species, but verify the exact diameter against your state or regional guidance before drilling.

How high should I mount the box?

Aim for roughly 8 to 15 feet above ground, on a post or tree trunk, with a clear flight path to the entrance.

Do I need to add nesting material?

No. Red-headed woodpeckers excavate their own cavities and bring their own material. Leave the interior as built.

Can I use these plans for other woodpeckers?

Some dimensions overlap with other large cavity nesters, but each species has its own requirements. Compare plans with species-specific guidance before building. For related designs, see Pileated Woodpecker Birdhouse Plans: A Step-by-Step Build Guide and Downy Woodpecker Birdhouse Plans: Build a Nest Box in One Afternoon.

When should I clean the box?

Clean it once after the nesting season ends, removing old nesting material and checking for pests. Never clean during active nesting.

Where else can I find free birdhouse designs?

Browse Free Birdhouse Plans and Patterns: 8 Printable Designs to Build This Weekend and Large Birdhouse Plans Free: 4 Builds for Owls, Kestrels and Wood Ducks for more options of similar size.

Conclusion

With a large interior, a correctly sized entrance, and a sheltered mounting spot, you can build a box that red-headed woodpeckers will consider. Use the cut list above, keep the inside unfinished, and clean the box once a year. Check your local wildlife guidance before finalizing dimensions.

Related reading

• Wren Birdhouse Plans Free: Build a Cedar House in One Weekend

About Audrey Hayes

Audrey Hayes is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our woodworking guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.